HSK - Seaside delight

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CITYLIFE / Travel






Seaside delight


By Richard Restell (That's Beijing)
Updated: 2007-09-20 10:59







It’s chilly, and a mist is falling at 10am as Wang Li sits on the edge
of a wooden boat that has been winched far up onto the shore. Tangled
nets lie to the side on the pebbles, and the morning catch is already at
the market just a hundred or so yards up the beach. Just offshore boats
sit motionless on the flat water, barely discernable in the mist, the
soft putt-putt sound of a motor quietly beating in time to the voices of
the fishmongers haggling prices with customers.

Wang, 34, has fished in these waters since childhood, joining his uncle
on the boats as a teenager. The waters that break against the weathered
rocks of this coastline are abundant in shellfish, octopus, sea urchins,
crustaceans and other marine life. At around noon the mists have cleared
to reveal a pale blue sky, and the market is getting busier as people
from town come to stock up on fresh, and remarkably cheap, seafood.

Worlds away from the seashore, in the forested hills inland, a group of
young male tigers lie sprawled beneath a wooden viewing platform, lazily
eyeing the group of onlookers above. “Ten yuan for three pieces of
chicken. Fifty yuan for a whole, live one,” says the keeper to a group
of new arrivals. “You could all pitch in just five yuan,” he adds
hopefully, but the girls turn away shyly and the boys feign interest in
the wildlife. The Forest and Animal Park covers roughly seven square
kilometers and sits snug in the green hills that sweep down to the coast,
the entire area laced with walking trails that take in the various
animals – the big cats, polar bears, wolves, elephants, llamas,
marsupials, and emus.



In the south of the peninsula, Laohutan Polar Aquarium has attracted a
larger crowd, and visitors mill about at the entrance, clambering over
the giant model dinosaurs that inhabit the park, and posing with
performers in the square beyond. The aquarium is on Binhai Road, a
winding coastal road that stretches for 35 kilometers along the southern
edge of the peninsula. Starting in the downtown area, it’s possible to
walk the entire route within a day, a perfectly feasible enterprise for
the energetic traveler, as even in the peak of the summer the
temperatures in this region are relatively mild.

The city of Dalian is surrounded by greenery – forest parks, scenic
zones, pebble beaches, and a rugged coastline, but Dalian itself is also
a place of hidden calm. It is a city of squares, of quiet hidden corners,
of parks, and wide thoroughfares. So even after returning from the
surrounding environs, it is possible to retain a sense of the
enchantment, the therapeutic joy that comes from splashing in rocky tide
pools hunting for crabs, or scrambling down a trail littered with fallen
leaves. The scent of salt, of the earth, of the plants and flowers, is a
heady antidote to months spent in the city.

The taste of the ocean can also be rediscovered in the numerous seafood
restaurants found in the city. The Tian Tian seafood chain has the best
reputation, as well as some of the highest prices. The best eateries,
however, are in the commercial center of the city, centered around
Zhongshan Square, with a range of options and small cafes making it a
pleasant place to stroll and relax.



As at sunrise, in the late afternoon Zhongshan Square fills with the
city’s residents – badminton players, musicians, tai chi
practitioners, students perusing their notes, and old couples who have
settled themselves on a bench to watch all this. The buildings around the
square date from the Japanese occupation, and now house prestigious
corporations including banks and hotels, while close by are the
People’s Cultural Club and Peking Opera House, which today serve as the
main concert hall and Peking Opera venues.

Several blocks away, the stall owners of the Russian Street are slowly
packing up their wares. Many of the stalls sell Russian-themed items, but
there are a number of outdoor markets nearby which offer Chinese products
– antiques, vases, jade sculptures, and shadow boxes with shell
mosaics. At the top of the street, where it opens into a wide square,
children play in the disused fountain, now a makeshift racetrack for
their battery-powered cars. The buildings are in disrepair, giving this
part of the city the feel of an abandoned 1920s movie set. The area
around Russian Street in Xigang District probably offers the best
concentration of old buildings in Dalian, and while many old buildings
throughout the city were destroyed during periodic bouts of renovation,
pockets remain, offering an eclectic mix of architectural styles for
anyone with a taste for history. Development stemmed from colonial
occupation, giving the city a diverse character, much like Hong Kong,
Qingdao and Shanghai – but for many, what sets Dalian apart is the
cleanliness of the place, with industry located far outside the city
center.

Just as in the rest of China, the city is currently experiencing a surge
in growth. But having the option of engaging effortlessly with nature is
a refreshing alternative that offers a time out from the relentless crush
of noise and traffic. The city was originally a minor fishing port, but
this changed under Russian influence, and it transformed itself into the
second largest commercial port in China.

Yet, unlike many industrialized ports, Dalian developed a strong tourism
base and this metropolitan hub has the distinct mindset of an island
resort. Provincial government dictates reflect a commitment to the
environment and the region boasts excellent air quality. Dalian remains a
big tourist draw, but despite the hordes who come to take advantage of
the charm and the refreshing environment, you can still find seclusion,
peace and tranquility, while enjoying one of China’s most beautiful
cities.























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